I always look forward to a trip to Klaipėda. And not because the weather is different there, you can feel the sea breeze. But it is also great opportunity to watch the ships passing by. At the same time you can feel that the Lithuanians have been ruling Klaipėda for more than 70 years, but it is still separated from the rest of Lithuania by a certain separation. But maybe this is natural thing ?
Part I. Medieval Crossrods of Swords: How the Samogitians Besieged Memel
1252 The Livonian Orders Master Eberhard von Seyn, together with the Courland Bishop Heinrich, reaches a strategically important place - here the Nemunas (the Germans called Memel) flows in to the see.
They needed springboard that would connect the lands of the Livonian Order with the Teutonic Order in Prussia. Right here stands a wooden castle called Memelburg. For the Samogitians , this fortress was like a thorn in their throat. It blindly blocked their direct access to the Baltic sea and cut through the lands of the Baltic tribes. The knights of the Order had not yet had time to settle down properly when the peace of the surrounding forests was pierced by the trumpets of war. The century - long nightmare of the Memelburg began.
The first trails : fire and catapults
In the spring of 1253 , barely after the first construction was completed , the castle was surrounded by a joint army of Samogitians and Curonians. The strategy was simple , but cruel - hunger and fire. The Lithuanians arranged wooden towers arround the castle, from which they pelted the captured with flaming arrows and stones. The knights defended themselves fiercery , and the castle walls withstood the first baptism, but it was only an overture. The citys greatest test ofthe 13th century came in 1258. The Samogitians returned stronger, better prepared, and driven by indomitable range. They burned down the German posad (settlment outside the castle walls) that had just begun to grow. Chronicals mention that the castle was surrounded so blindly that "neither a bird could fly out nor a beast escape". The defenders starved, ate horse meat and leather belts. Only by a hair`s breadth, after receiving reinforcements by sea from Konigsberg, did the knigths manage to repel the attackers.
Gediminas`Wrath and Strategic Pressure
In the 14th century, then Lithuania was ruled by the great strategist Duke Gediminas, Klaipėda suffered another crushing blow. In 1323. Gediminas`army , in revenge for the Order`s campaigns in the devastated Aukštaitija and Samogitia , reached Memel. The Lithuanians did not used sophisticated siege engines - they chose the tactics of economic warfare . They completely burned the city itself, destroyed the port warehouses, the surrounding mills and villages, and left the castle itself isolated. Gediminas understood : if you can`t take the stone walls, make them so that they have nothing to defend. After this attack, the Order was forced to sign a truce, and the city linced his wounds for decades. This first century of Klaipeda`s existance formed a unique feature of the city - the phenomenom of isolation. Memel was a German island surrounded by the Baltics. It survived only thanks to the fact that it always had the sea. and a fleet behind it, which could bring in food and soldiers. The Samoginians never took the castle, but they achieved their coal - the city remained only the military post for a long time, and not a thriving trading center.
Part II.The Swedish Flood and the Seven Yaer`s war: When the City Became a Geopolitical Prey
The 17th and 18th centuries brought a new reality to Klaipeda (Memelis). The city was no longer just a small wooden castle of the Order surrounded by pagans - now it was strategically important port of the Duchy of Prussia. Because of it, the great empires of Europe clashed, and military technology advanced: swords and bows were replaced by muskets, heavy artillery and modern land fortifications. Klaipeda turned into a modern land fortress, and its inhabitants became a hostages to the ambitions to the great powers.
Swedish occupation: a port built with the their own money
In the 1629, one of the most powerful European armies of that time entered the history of Klaipeda - the Swedes, led by the king Carl Gustav II Adolf. As the Thirty Year`s War raged in Europe, Sweden sought complete control of the Baltis Sea. The Prussian hero and Elector Georg Wilhelm was too weak to resist, so Klaipeda surrendered to the Sweden without much bloodshed, but with great fear. The Swedish occupation, which lasted until 1635, left a deep mark on the city. The Swedes understood that the port of Klaipeda was a "golden vein", so they introduced huge duties on trade. Paradoxically , it was from this money, collected from local merchants, that Swedish enginerees began to build a modern defense system for the city of Klaipeda - they poured the firts earthen bastions, which later evolved into the Jonas Hill we know today. The city became modern, inaccesesible fortress, surrounded by moats.
The Hell of 1757: The Seven Year`s War and the Russian Empire`s Strike
The greatest tragedy of that era befell Klaipeda in the summer of 1757, when Europe was torn apart by the Seven Year`s War. The Prussian King Frederick the Great was at war with half of Europe, and from the east a huge army of the Russian Empire, led by General William Fermor, supported by the powerfull Baltic fleet, moved towards Memel. The garrison of Klaipeda was small, and defens was led by an elderly commandant , but the city did not intend to surrender without a fight. At the end of June, the Russian fleet blocked the port from the sea, and the land army surrounded thecity from the east . A terible bombardment of Klaipeda began. Russian war ships and land batteries fired thousands of incendiary and explosive charges into the city center. Witnesses wrote that the city turned into real hell: church towers burned , half-timbered houses collapsed like matchboxes, and residents hid in the cestle cellars and bastion`s porters. Realizing that the city would be completly wiped off the face of the earth, and there were no reinforcements, the commandant surrendered. For the five year`s 1757-1762 Klaipeda was officially annexed to the Russian empire . Local residents and merchants were forced to swear allegians to the Russian empress Elizabeth. This period , paradoxically, was not economically disastrous for the city - Russian officers liked the local taverns, trade with the Russian hinterland revived, but Klaipeda forever remembered what modern artillery fire meant. Klaipeda survived again and after the war Prussian crown returned. Only to briefly become Prusia`s own lifeline and temporary capital, fleeing Napoleon, half of century later (1807).
The Interwar Period. The Baltic Gold Ruch : Wood, the English and the Industrial Boom
Ahter the Seven Year`s War and a brief period as the capital of Prussia (1807-1808), Klaipeda shed its armor of a purely military fortress and opened its gates to global capital. The city realized its greatest asset - its geographical location on the border of the Nemunas delta, which was ideal for the export of raw materials. Klaipeda`s great economic boom began.
Number One Timber Port
In the 19th century, Klaipeda became the most famous timber trading port in the entire Baltic Sea. Logs flowing through the forest of Lithuania and Belarus reached the Nemunas in bundles, and from there - the Klaipeda lumber mils. This business attracted powerful merchants from Western Europe, especialy from Great Britain. In 1792 alone, as many as 756 British ships visited the port, carrying the timbe for the Royl Navy. A large English community settled in the city, a British consulate opened, and the local elite adopted British fashions. Started establishing football clubs and sipping tea. English and Scottish capital also laid the fondations for Klaipeda`s first metalworking and mashine-building industry.
Amber mines and cellulose giants
In the second half of the century, the city entered heavy industry. Since 1862, the famous "Stantien & Becker" company began to industrially mine amber at the bottom of the lagoon near Juodkrante, becaming the largest in all of the Eastern Prussia andextracting thousands of tons of amber, which traveled as far as Asia. And at the end of the 19th century, the silhouette of the port city was complemented by gigantic industrial chimneys - a cellulose factory opened its doors, which soon became the largest enterprise in the region. Klaipeda cellulose and plywood were valued throughout Europe, then Klaipeda remaining neutral, accumulated fabulous wealth from the transit of Russian goods.
Lithuania`s interwar maritim leap
After the events of the 1923 uprising, when the Klaipeda region was annexed to Lithuania, the city underwent another economic transformation. Until then, it had been a corner of the Germain Empire, Berlin invested more in Königsbeg . Klaipeda became Lithuania`s only window to the world. The Rebuplic of Lithuania has directed huge investmets here. Wood export was supplemented by the food industry : the "Maisto" factory, the modern textile factory "Goliotas" and the joint- stock company "Lietuvos muilas" flourished in Klaipeda. The port was dredged, modernized and the first mechant fleet of independent Lithuania began to be the base there. During the interwar period as much as 70% of Lithuania`s total foreign trade turnover passed through Klaipeda. The city became a modern, cosmopolitan and prosperous industrial center. Where Lithuanian, German and Jewish capital intertwined. It was this extraordinary matirial and industrial wealth created over two centuries that made Klaipeda such as diserable and painful target for both warring sides in the autumn apocalypse of 1944.
Part III.The Apocalypse of 1945 : When the Time Stood Still and the City Empty
The 20th century brought Klaipeda not just another siege, but the complete end of the old world. After the 1923 uprising and a short but intensive interwar period of Lithuanian rule, the city was annexed by Nazi Germany in 1939. However, the greatest tragedy began in the fall of 1944, when the Soviet army approached the bordes of the Third Reich, Klaipeda became one of the most fortified places on the Eastern front - operation historically known as an the"Memel Pocket"- Bruckenkopf Memel - began.
Bruckenkopf Memel - a steel bridgehead
In early October 1944, Soviet troops reached the Baltic coast at Palanga in a suddan offensive and completely cut off Klaipeda from the rest of the German mainland. The city became a surrounded island, with the Curonian Spit and the sea as its only connection to the outside world. Adolf Hitler ordered Klaipeda to be defended to the last drop of blood, declaring it a fortress. The German army formed fhree powerful defensive lines around the city, dotted with trenches, reinforced concrete bunkers and tank trenches. This relatively small garrison was supported from the sea by the German navy - the legendary cruisers "Priz Eugen" and "Lutzow". With their huge caliber guns, they destroyd Soviet positions on land from sea, preventing them from breaking through the front line. The siege lasted almost four months. In winter, the ground was frozen and the city was shaken day and nigth by the explosions of Soviet artillery and aviation bombs. The old town , which had stood for centuries, turned into a pile of smoking ruins.
The Great Escape and the Sea That Became Hope
The most terrible part of this siege was the humanitarian catastrophe. The city`s inhabitants - the Memelander`s - understood that the approaching Soviet army would not bring liberation. At the end of 1944 and in January 1945 , a mass, desperate evacuation began. Thousand of civilians, women with children and elderly, leaving behind all their life`s possessions , walked and in horse-drawn carriages across the frozen Curonian Lagoon towards Nida and further towards Königsberg. The ice cracked from bomb explosions, dozens of carriages sank to the deepths and the rest froze in the ice wind. Another part of the populiation was evacuated by ship directly from the port of Klaipeda. This was the part of the great "Hannibal" operation, during which the Germans rescued millions of refugees from East Prussia by sea.
Collapse and emptiness: 1945 January 28
The desition to abandon the city was made only when the defense lost its strategic meaning. At the end of January 1945, German soldiers secretly moved across lagoon to the Curonian Spite at nigth, blowing up the port facillities, bridges and remaining factories along the way. When the Red army soldiers entered Klaipeda on the morning of January 28th, they found not a surrandered city, but a terrible, smoking desert. Chronicals and soldiers mention that there was almost no one left in the city - only the wind driving paper bags throuth the empty streets and starving domestic dozens civilians remained in the city. This was greatest and final collaps of old Klaipeda. The city did not die physically - about 60% of the buildings were destroyed or damaged - but the spirit, culture and community, which created this land for almost 700 years died.
Conclution : Phoenix above the waves of the Dange
The history of the Klaipeda is a constant cycle between ambitious prosperity and total destruction. Samogitian axes, Swedish muskets, Russian artillery and Sovet bombers repeatedly tried to erase this city from the map. However every time the dust of war settled, the voices of axes and builders were heard again at the mounth of the Dange. After the catastrophe of the 1945 the city was repopulated - people from all over Lithuania and the Soviet Union came here, creating a completely new demographic and cultural fabric. Today`s Klaipeda is a monument to human stubbornness and the ability to rise from the ashes. Carrying within itself the deep and scarred marks of old sieges.